Seed saving is not rocket science. There are just a few things you need to know and do to grow and save seed successfully.
Find out whether the plant you want to grow to seed is a self-pollinator or a cross-pollinator. Start with self-pollinators which are simpler (e.g. lettuce, beans, peas and tomatoes).
Choose open-pollinated — heirloom — seeds which will grow true to type, over hybrids.
Choose the variety you want to grow (e.g. cos lettuce), and label the seed and plants carefully all the way through the process.
Grow the plant as you would normally, but:
Once the seed has ripened on the plant (e.g. beans will go brown and dry, lettuce will be covered in white fluff, tomatoes will be over ripe), pick the whole plant and put in an undercover place to dry with a cloth or paper (not plastic) bag underneath. Some plant seeds need wet processing before drying (e.g. tomato pulp is fermented).
Once the seed is completely dry, hand process it — separate the seed from the husks. Store it in cool, dry, vermin free conditions. Remember to label the seed with details of species, variety, date and where it was grown.
Share
If you have seed to spare, consider sharing it with others via Seed Savers. If you need help at any step of the way, we are happy to answer your questions.
Seed savers are vegetable breeders whether they intend to be or not: choice determines future plant characteristics.
To keep a variety stable, seed savers should select carefully those plants that most closely exhibit good characteristics. Parent plants need to look and grow as expected, and produce tasty food:
Location matters, as pollination distances vary. To make sure that parent plants have the characteristics sought, seed savers need to know where these are. In town it is almost impossible to know what is hiding on the other side of the fence. One solution is to save seed only from plants that are self-pollinated, such as tomatoes, lettuce, peas and standard beans.
Seed savers growing cross-pollinating crops (e.g. cabbage and broccoli) need to ensure they are far enough in either time or distance from other pollinating varieties that might produce an unintended cross.
For experienced seed savers with insect pollinated crops, techniques such as bagging or caging can be used to exclude pollinators and keep strains pure.
Sample distances required between pollinating plants, home use |
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Plant |
Pollination |
Breeding |
Minimum isolation |
bean, runner |
self/insects |
BIO |
250 m |
beetroot |
wind |
VO |
1 km |
broccoli |
insects |
VO |
500 m |
capsicum |
self/insects |
PI |
50 m |
carrot |
insects |
PO |
500 m |
chilli |
self/insects |
BIO |
250 m |
corn |
wind |
PO |
500 m |
onion |
insects |
PO |
500 m |
pumpkin |
insects |
PO |
500 m |
silverbeet |
wind |
VO |
500 m |
tomato, heirloom |
self/insects |
PI |
12 m |
BIO = both inbreeding and outbreeding; PI = primarily inbreeding; PO = primarily outbreeding; VO = very outbreeding |
Harvesting seed requires good timing. Seed savers aim to get as much good seed as possible from each plant. Many varieties make this difficult as seed ripens over a period of weeks, and early seed falls from the plant before the last seed is mature enough to be picked. On the positive side, seed falling from the plant is an excellent indicator that the seed is mature enough to harvest.
The first fruits of the season will usually produce the biggest and best seed — constant picking saps a plant's energy over a season. If only a small quantity of seed is required, consider picking seed by hand as soon as some is seen to fall, or the first pods have burst open.
To avoid losing early matured seed and allow later developed seed to mature, the whole plant can be harvested and laid on a tarp to dry. The plant will use remaining energy from leaves, stems and roots to finish maturing as much seed as possible.
When harvesting fruiting vegetables for seed they should be picked when fully mature, for example:
For more information on processing seed see elsewhere on this website, or www.savingourseeds.org